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This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to save a wood deck from a catastrophic collapse. Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=thisoldhouse Full episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOb9RUCLHu4&index=11&list=PLkJADc1qDrr8JnEkf1GX2utInAXW6t2XP Watch How to Build Deck Stairs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYs7XWSYDRA Watch How to Clad Concrete Steps in Stone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7kH_p_qRBo Watch How to Powerwash a Walkway: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haqXDhTjUds Tools for How to Safely Attach a Deck to a House: - Sledgehammer - Circular saw - Drill/driver - Impact wrench - Hammer drill with 1/2-inch-diameter masonry bit Shopping list for How to Safely Attach a Deck to a House: - 2x4s and 2x6s½-inch x 10-inch galvanized lag screws with washers - ½-inch x 10-inch masonry wedge anchors - Pressure-treated 2x4 - Engineered-lumber joist hangers Follow This Old House: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ThisOldHouse Twitter: https://twitter.com/thisoldhouse Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/thisoldhouse/ G+: https://plus.google.com/+thisoldhouse/posts Instagram: http://instagram.com/thisoldhouse Tumblr: http://thisoldhouse.tumblr.com/
Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva demonstrates the correct way to replace a cracked kitchen floor tile. Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=thisoldhouse Time: 2 days Cost: $75 Skill Level: Moderate Tools List for Replacing Cracked Floor Tiles: Utility knife Cold chisel Hammer Bucket Notched trowel Level Rubber float Shopping List: Replacement tile Sponge Acrylic floor adhesive Pre-mixed grout Steps: 1. Cut the grout around the damaged tile carefully with a utility knife. 2. Place the cold chisel on the deepest crack in the tile and carefully hit it with the hammer until the cold chisel is underneath the tile. Watch the grout lines around the tile to ensure the grout and surrounding tiles don’t also crack. 3. Slowly pry the tile up with the cold chisel. Once it’s up, remove the rest of the tile with your hands. The tile is very sharp, so be extra cautious while removing the tile. 4. Remove any loose adhesive remaining on the floor. Dampen a sponge and clean the floor. 5. Apply the acrylic floor adhesive generously to the floor. Use the flat side of the notched trowel to spread it out evenly, then use the notched side to groove the adhesive. 6. Place the new tile on the floor. Make sure it is level with the rest of the floor. 7. Clean the excess adhesive off the tile and the surrounding area. Let it dry for a few hours. 8. Grout the tile into the floor using the rubber float. Apply the grout into the cracks diagonally. 9. Use a round handle and drag it along the new grout lines to give it a clean, finished look. 10. Clean off the excess the grout with a damp sponge and let it cure overnight. Resources: Finding a matching tile can be difficult. Look on the underside of the tile for clues and bring the tile with you to local hardware stores and tile shops when looking for a match. Everything Tom used to replace the tile, including the cold chisel, hammer, notched trowel, and grout can be found at home centers. The acrylic base Tom used in place of thinset is Acrylpro Professional Tile Adhesive, manufactured by Custom Building Products (https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/). It can be found at most home centers. Ask This Old House TV Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook. This Old House releases new segments every Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Keywords: This Old House, How-to, home improvement, DIY, tile, flooring, kitchen, repair, tom silva Watch the full episode: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/watch/metal-railing-tile-replacement-ask-toh Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ThisOldHouse Twitter: https://twitter.com/thisoldhouse https://twitter.com/asktoh Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/thisoldhouse/ G+: https://plus.google.com/+thisoldhouse/posts Instagram: http://instagram.com/thisoldhouse Tumblr: http://thisoldhouse.tumblr.com/
Siding DVP es un revestimiento exterior en PVC de alta durabilidad desarrollado bajo estándares mundiales y pensado para una fácil y rápida instalación. Otorga mayor durabilidad sin decolorarse o alterar su forma original, siendo así un elemento decorativo de primer nivel para la fachada de su hogar, empresa o industria.
Watch the full episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVCfwHxIblA
This Old House general contractor Tom Silva helps a homeowner install a rain gutter, downspout, and rain barrel. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)
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Shopping List for Installing a Rain Gutter:
- Aluminum gutter
- Aluminum downspout
- Aluminum elbows, end caps, mounting straps, and downspout outlet
- Gutter hanging brackets, for securing the gutter to the house
- Sheet metal screws, used to fasten together the gutter and downspout parts
- Gutter sealant, for creating waterproof connections between gutter parts
- Two 2-inch-thick concrete pavers, used to create a solid base for the rain barrel
- Rain barrel and diverter, used to collect rainwater
Tools List for Installing a Rain Gutter:
- Chalk line
- Tape measure
- Caulk gun
- Crimping tool
- Hacksaw and tin snips
- Hammer and cold chisel (or hole saw), used to cut a hole in the gutter
Steps for Installing a Rain Gutter:
1. Snap a chalk line across the fascia, creating the proper pitch toward the downspout end.
2. Measure the fascia to determine the length of the gutter.
3. Apply gutter sealant to an end cap, then press the cap onto one end of the gutter.
4. Secure the end cap to the gutter with a crimping tool.
5. Use a hacksaw and tin snips to cut the gutter to length.
6. Use a hammer and a cold chisel (or a hole saw) to cut a round hole in the gutter for a downspout outlet.
7. Apply gutter sealant to the flange of the downspout outlet, then screw the outlet to the hole in the gutter.
8. Temporarily screw the gutter to the fascia, positioning it about 2 inches below the chalk line.
9. Install hanging brackets onto the gutter, positioning one in front of each rafter.
10. Raise the gutter to the chalk line and fasten each hanging bracket by screwing through the fascia and into the rafter tail.
11. Set two 2-inch-thick concrete pavers on the ground directly below the downspout outlet.
12. Set a rain barrel on top of the concrete pavers.
13. Use a hacksaw to cut and assemble the downspout and elbows.
14. Screw the upper end of the downspout to the downspout outlet protruding from the gutter.
15. Fasten the downspout to the house with mounting straps.
16. Install a diverter in the downspout, positioning it even with the top of the rain barrel.
17. Attach a short length of downspout to the underside of the diverter.
18. Connect the diverter's flexible hose to the port on the side of the rain barrel.
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